"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
09/13/2016 at 12:00 • Filed to: cl100, honda, motorcycle, project, wrenching, blog
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15|
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
09/13/2016 at 12:00 • Filed to: cl100, honda, motorcycle, project, wrenching, blog | 2
| 15 |
Haven’t made much progress repair-wise, but I’ve started to poke around on !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! , and have a better idea of what it needs. Here’s what I found.
(Reminder: this is phase 1 , in which I will only be focusing on getting it running. Things like lighting and cosmetics will be addressed later.)
I removed the battery, which (sure enough) was low on water. I don’t think there’s much hope of it being usable after all this time, but hey- distilled water’s cheap. Let’s top it off and see if it will hold a charge anyway...
Fuses are good and all wiring looks okay. I’m not seeing any wear, corrosion, or evidence of critters chewing on things.
The rust in the fuel tank is even crustier towards the bottom. I’m in the middle of setting it up for some !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! to see if it’s worth restoring, or if the rust removal is just going to uncover some brand-new leaks. One of the forward mounting bushings is gone, so I’ll have to find a replacement or see if I have a spare chunk of rubber laying around that can be cut to size.
I am missing the bowl that screws into the bottom of the fuel valve. Seems too small to be a filter housing. Maybe the filter is supposed to be an inline type after all. I’d like to remove this valve to clean it, but I can’t find any screws. (It doesn’t just pull right out, does it?) If I can’t get a bowl for the bottom, maybe I’ll just get a whole valve assembly to replace it.
You see what happens, Larry? This is what happens when you leave behind some 30-year old gas!
I opened up the carburetor, and it’s pretty gunky in there. I found a good !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! on cleaning the carb, and just might have to get my hands on one of those nifty ultrasonic cleaners. (I don’t think my parts washer is going to do much for cleaning those tiny fuel passages.) The seals are all hardened, but those will all get replaced once I get my rebuild kit. Fortunately, submerging the float isn’t showing any leaks.
I drained the oil and it’s not sludgy. It is a little dirty, though, and I’m sorry to say I found some metal (non-ferrous) particles in it. My father tells me that he was having trouble with getting the drain plug to seal, and may have cross-threaded it. Maybe that’s what these particles are from? The drain plug is stacked with one (nylon?) washer, two cork washers, and a smear of RTV. Lovely.
Magnifying glass because potato-cam
The spark plug is dirty, and the top of the piston looks the same. I haven’t seen the rest of the combustion chamber yet, since the piston just about at the top of its stroke, and I have not yet attempted to turn the engine.
Spud-scope view of the piston head
With the carburetor off, I decided to take the exhaust off as well. Here’s what I saw inside the intake port, and the exhaust outlet.
Intake valve
Exhaust valve
While I had the spud-scope out, I took a peek inside the crankcase, too:
Next step is to complete my electrolysis rig for the fuel tank and let the pixies do their thing. I will also get a rebuild kit for the carburetor and work on cleaning it while I’m waiting for the kit to arrive. My chargers are 12-volt, so I’ll have to pick up a 6-volt one for this battery.
What are your thoughts? Anything I ought to do before I turn the engine and draw the piston down the chamber? Could those particles at the bottom be just broken off bits from a previously cross-threaded drain plug? (It seemed to unscrew just fine.)
Berang
> Urambo Tauro
09/13/2016 at 12:12 |
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This video might help you with the petcock:
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Urambo Tauro
> Berang
09/13/2016 at 12:17 |
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A-ha! Just what I needed. Thanks!
jminer
> Urambo Tauro
09/13/2016 at 12:17 |
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To remove the pet cock you’ll need to remove the screen, then you’ll see the two screws to remove it from the tank. The bottom is a bowl that in conjunction with the above screen works as a small filter.
The drain plug will drip with all of those washers, it needs a clean surface on both the case and plug and 1 copper washer sized appropriately to not leak. Anything more or less will cause it to drip.
If that batteries more then 5 years old it’s probably not coming back to life. 6 volt batteries aren’t cheap or easy to find though.
All in all, it’s a solid project. I wouldn’t worry too much about the engine internals, old hondas are quite solid machines. In order to get it running you’ll likely need new points and condenser though.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I rebuild old hondas as a hobby.
bob and john
> Urambo Tauro
09/13/2016 at 12:17 |
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my bet would be either parts from that OR clutch lining. remember bikes have the clutch bathed in the same oil as the motor.
pour a little (tably spoon worth) of oil down the spark plug hole and let it sit.
ON THE TOPIC OF OIL: use a MOTORCYCLE specific oil. do NOT use car oil. Car oils have friction modifiers that work great in reducing friction... but what happens to the clutch when its in that? the clutch lining soaks up those modifiers and now your clutch is ka-put.
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Urambo Tauro
> bob and john
09/13/2016 at 12:20 |
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The shop manual says SAE 10W-30.
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Urambo Tauro
> jminer
09/13/2016 at 12:23 |
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The proper washer is copper, huh? I wouldn’t have guessed that. I’ll take a better look at the threads and carefully re-tap them if needed.
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bob and john
> Urambo Tauro
09/13/2016 at 12:26 |
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viscosity has jack shit to do if its bike oil or car oil.
read the label. get BIKE oil.
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Urambo Tauro
> bob and john
09/13/2016 at 12:28 |
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So there IS a difference! Good thing I didn’t buy any yet. Thanks!
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Berang
> Urambo Tauro
09/13/2016 at 12:31 |
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The shop manual is also from before companies would put moly or similar additives in motor oil. A wet clutch won’t grip right in that stuff. You might find a regular motor oil without it that will work, but to be safe just get the motorcycle oil.
Snuze: Needs another Swede
> bob and john
09/13/2016 at 12:50 |
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Hehe, when I first started FSAE there were no “bike guys” on the team, so they were just putting car oil in the CBR600 engine and wondering why they had to replace clutches so often.
Pickup_man
> Urambo Tauro
09/13/2016 at 13:31 |
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Didn’t know these were 6V, doesn’t look like they’re too hard to convert to 12V though if you wanted to.
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthre…
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jminer
> Urambo Tauro
09/13/2016 at 13:31 |
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Some had an aluminum washer from the factory, but those can be near unobtanium locally. Copper washers are much more readily available and work as well.
Honda used the same drain plug and washer on a wide variety of motors. It won’t usually cost more the $15 to order a new plug and washer (if available).
Good luck with the project. I’ve always loved scramblers...
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Urambo Tauro
> Pickup_man
09/13/2016 at 13:37 |
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Interesting idea! But it’s not my bike so, I’m not going to get carried away with mods.
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Pickup_man
> Urambo Tauro
09/13/2016 at 13:53 |
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I don’t blame you there, it might be cheaper than a new battery charger though, and provides a few benefits.
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bob and john
> Snuze: Needs another Swede
09/13/2016 at 14:05 |
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At least clutches for bikes are cheap and easy to replace